Installation

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Introduction

Big Bob's is leading flooring contractor in Southwestern Arizona. We achieved this position by offering quality products and service. Our experienced staff offers product, competitive estimates and installation knowledge that you can depend on. Whether your concern is budget or time constraints, we offer the options to provide a quality job, done right the first time.

Whether your residential or commercial flooring project is big or small, contact us today for a quote to ensure you get the value and service you deserve!

My Big Bob's

Carpet | Installation

Being knowledgeable and prepared for the big day when the new carpeting will transform your home is very important. Being ready for the installation of your carpet will make the entire process go faster and more efficiently. Knowing what to expect and being prepared will also be a lot less stressful on you, your family and your home.

Use a professional - some of these basics follow:

Seams

  • seaming diagram is the installers' "blueprint" for overall layout, seam placement and transition
  • professionals know how to deal with seams best
  • seams are inevitable
  • professionals excel at minimizing and hiding seams
  • professionals insure seams are placed away from pivoting traffic, and not perpendicular to doorway openings
  • some styles show seam tape more than others, called telegraphing or peaking
  • peaking is seen more in low cut pile and looped carpets
  • a tight seam can still be seen
  • sometimes extra carpet is ordered to better match patterns at the seams

Transitions

  • when two different flooring products meet like carpet to wood
  • professional installers will try to match the surface heights to minimize transitions.

What to know and do before installation day

Furniture is step one

  • remove all furniture
  • additional charges occur for moving furniture
  • empty the contents of china cabinets, closets

Know what to do with your present floor covering

  • consider removal of old floor covering, sometimes messy and time consuming
  • if you remove it, do it at least one day before for cleanup and floor preparation
  • leave tack strips in place
  • pull the staples out of the floor from the original pad
  • painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching; this is your responsibility

Subflooring

  • may need preparation for new carpet - leave this to the pros

Doors

  • doors may not clear the new carpet and swing freely
  • a professional can remove doors and re-hang, if possible
  • they will shave or cut down to insure clearance at an additional cost

Clean-up

  • installing new carpet will produce waste
  • materials are usually collected by your installer and left at your trash collection site
  • hauling away is usually an additional cost

What to know and do during installation day

Installation day

Be prepared to be at home the day of installation and be available in case the installation crew has questions. Your presence will insure that the correct carpet is installed in the right areas.

  • some installers may not be able to give you an exact time of arrival
  • be flexible and keep in touch with your retailer/installer

Safety

  • installers use tools and techniques that can make the work area hazardous
  • make sure that children and pets are kept out of the work area

The walk-through

  • prior to the completion of the installation, walk-through the job with the chief installer
  • this gives you the opportunity to ask questions about final details

What to know and do after installation day

  • for odor sensitivity, good ventilation is important
  • some of the chemicals and adhesives in carpet can smell for 48 to 72 hours
  • be prepared to provide the room with adequate ventilation

Fixing post-installation problems

  • shedding is a natural part of a new carpet
  • frequent vacuuming for the first few days should help
  • sprouting is the small tufts or loops that are visible afterwards
  • use small scissors to trim the loose fibers flush with the carpet's surface
  • for wrinkles or ripples, a re-stretch maybe needed

Hardwood | Installation

4 methods of installation 

1. Glue Down:

  • adhesive is spread on with the proper sized trowel
  • engineered floors and parquets- can be glued down
  • solid strip floors and plank floors can only be nailed or stapled

2. Nail Down:

  • used with the 3/4" solid products
  • sometimes available for thinner floors
  • 2" nailing cleats used with a  nailer and mallet to attach to the subfloor
  • solid strip floors or plank floors only installed on wood subfloors on grade or above grade

3. Staple Down:

  • 1-1/2 to 2 inch staples  used versus nailing cleats to attach to the subfloor
  • pneumatic gun used to drive the staple into the subfloor
  • not all companies recommend the same staple gun

4. Floating:

  • padding and glue used together
  • floating installation- not fastened to the subfloor
  • thin pad placed between the floor and subfloor
  • wood glue is applied in the tongue and groove to hold planks together
  • padding advantages: protects against moisture, reduces noise, softer, additional "R" value
  • engineered floors and all Longstrip floors can be floated
  • fast, easy and clean method of installation

Acclimation

  • mandatory
  • 2-3 days prior to installation
  • must be done in the area where product is installed

Laminate | Installation

Understanding the basics of installation will increase your knowledge of the process, and enhance your confidence in the installers.

  • use a professional
  • installed using a "floating floor system"
  • padded underlayment sits between the subfloor and the planks or tiles
  • planks or tiles sit on the underlayment, not anchored to the subfloor, and are connected to form a "one-piece" floating floor
  • installation can produce a hollow sound, reduced with a quality underlayment
  • floor will have a slight give underfoot, for more comfort
  • slight ridging or peaking where planks or tiles are joined can occur
  • glueless installations lock together without adhesive
  • consult the manufacturer’s warranty and care guide to see how often to clean the floor and the cost

 Potential additional expenses:

  • furniture removal/replacement
  • demolition/disposal of old floor covering
  • sub-floor preparation
  • product delivery
  • laminate installation, cost per square foot
  • materials required to complete

Process

  • installer inspects the  subfloor for imperfections
  • floor is then cleaned
  • underlayment placed over the subfloor
  • planks are laid
  • installers begin in the left corner leaving a minimum ¼" space between the flooring and perimeter walls
  • spacers are used to ensure the accuracy of this perimeter
  • after the floor is installed, spacers are removed and cover the perimeter gap with quarter round trim or a wall base
  • planks are laid in the desired pattern
  • planks are measured and cut to fit
  • floors that require glue on the sides begin by gluing the first two planks in the first row together
  • clamps or straps to hold pieces together

Before installation day

  • relocate furniture
  • empty china cabinets and closets
  • consider removal and disposal of old floorcovering
  • remove it yourself and leave 1 day before install
  • for carpet, leave tack strips and pull out staples

Trim

  • moldings and baseboards removed for additional costs
  • installers not responsible for breakage
  • painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching (your responsibility)

Sub flooring

  • may need to be prepared
  • new sub floor may be required
  • a job best left to the professionals

Door plan

  • possibility that doors may not clear the new floor and swing free
  • installers may remove doors and rehang for an additional cost.
  • for clearance issues, arrange for a qualified carpenter to shave or cut down

Clean-up

  • waste will be produced
  • waste collected and disposed of by installers at an additional cost

Installation day

  • be home and available
  • be prepared for questions
  • presence insures the right wood is installed in the right areas
  • exact time of arrival cannot be guaranteed, only a time frame

Safety

  • installers use tools and techniques that can be hazardous
  • make sure that children and pets are out of the work area
  • follow through with a walk-through
  • prior to completion- walk through to ask questions and be clear on any final details

After installation day

  • establish good ventilation for 48 to 72 hours
  • be prepared

Tile | Installation

Before Installers Arrive

The arrival of new ceramic tile flooring is no exception, especially when one realizes that tile, like any floor covering, impacts interior beauty, design, décor, comfort, livability and upkeep. It’s a truth of housing: floor coverings can make, or break a home. Being ready for the installation of your new ceramic tile will make the entire process go faster, more efficiently, and hopefully eliminate any “surprises.” Knowing what to expect and being prepared will also be a lot less stressful on you, your family and your home. 

Use a professional

  • this type of floor is heavy, difficult work
  • it’s labor intensive and extremely exacting
  • not for the do-it-yourselfer
  • installing tile flooring is a skill that is developed through years of experience

Process begins with foundation preparation:

Process

  • prepare and level the substrate
  • cement subfloors can apply the mortar directly to it to lay the tile
  • wood subfloors require a CBU (cement backer unit)
  • movement in the substrate material can sometimes occur
  • for example, water penetrating the grout and/or freezing and thawing temperatures can sometimes cause tile to rise, crack or chip
  • area gets measured
  • snap chalk lines for an accurate layout
  • determine which pieces of tile will need to be cut to fit the area
  • tiles that need to be cut are measured and marked with a pencil
  • then use a wet saw with a diamond blade to cut through
  • begin setting the tile
  • thinset mortar, which is a cement-based adhesive, is applied to the surface with a trowel
  • tile then placed into the thinset and pressed firmly into place
  • imperfections in your subfloor will require differing amounts of mortar to be applied
  • this installation, known as a medium bed installation, is more time consuming and costly
  • once the tiled floor has been set, left to fully cure (12 to 24 hours), grout is applied
  • quick set grout is also an option for smaller areas

Grout

  1. after tiles are set and the thinset mortar has fully cured,  joints are filled with grout
  2. sanded and unsanded grouts are used
  3. type of grout used is determined by the tile, grout joint and width
  4. mixture is spread over the tiled area to fill in all the joints
  5. sponge is used to remove excess grout from the surface of the tile
  6. mortar and grout need 24 hours to cure before walking on 

Before installation day

  • relocate furniture
  • empty china cabinets and closets
  • consider removal and disposal of old floorcovering
  • remove it yourself and leave 1 day before install
  • moldings and baseboards need to be removed for stone installation
  • installers not responsible for damage or breakage due to dry or brittle wood
  • painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching (this is your responsibility)
  • existing sub floor may need to be prepared to receive the stone

Door plan

  • possibility that doors may not clear the new floor and swing free
  • installers may remove doors and rehang for an additional cost
  • for clearance issues, arrange for a qualified carpenter to shave or cut down

Clean-up

  • waste will be produced
  • waste collected and disposed of by installers at an additional cost

Installation day

  • be home and available
  • be prepared for questions
  • presence insures the right wood is installed in the right areas
  • exact time of arrival cannot be guaranteed, only a time frame

Safety

  • installers use tools and techniques that can be hazardous
  • make sure that children and pets are out of the work area
  • follow through with a walk-through
  • prior to completion, walk through to ask questions and be clear on any final details

After installation day

  • establish good ventilation for 48 to 72 hours

Vinyl | Installation

Owning a home is all about being prepared. Preparing your home for seasonal changes, preparing for guests and now preparing for the arrival of new vinyl flooring. Being ready for the installation of your new vinyl flooring will make the entire process go faster, more efficiently, and hopefully eliminate any surprises.

Use a professional

  • this type of floor is heavy, difficult work
  • it’s labor intensive and extremely exacting
  • not for the do-it-yourselfer
  • installing vinyl flooring is a skill that is developed through years of experience

Subfloor preparation

  • installing over a wood substrate, an underlayment will generally be necessary
  • installing over a concrete substrate will not require an underlayment but will require some floor preparation
  • pay attention to the height of your appliances to counters and cabinets if an underlayment is required
  • strongly recommended that existing flooring be removed, to ensure a proper high quality installation before installing new flooring
  • professionals determine if your existing vinyl flooring is acceptable or if it will need to be removed

Install Methods

Full Spread

  • the adhesive is trowled over the entire substrate

Perimeter Adhered

  • installation method in which adhesive is only applied to the perimeter of the flooring and also at the seams

Floating

  • type of installation in which the vinyl flooring is not bonded to the substrate by any adhesive

Before installation day

  • relocate furniture
  • empty china cabinets and closets
  • consider removal and disposal of old floorcovering
  • remove it yourself and leave 1 day before install
  • moldings and baseboards need to be removed for vinyl installation
  • installers not responsible for damage or breakage due to dry or brittle wood
  • painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching (this is your responsibility)
  • existing sub floor may need to be prepared to receive the vinyl

Door plan

  • possibility that doors may not clear the new floor and swing free
  • installers may remove doors and rehang for an additional cost.
  • for clearance issues, arrange for a qualified carpenter to shave or cut down

Clean-up

  • waste will be produced
  • waste collected and disposed of by installers at an additional cost

Installation day

  • be home and available
  • be prepared for questions
  • presence insures the right wood is installed in the right areas
  • exact time of arrival cannot be guaranteed, only a time frame

Safety

  • installers use tools and techniques that can be hazardous
  • make sure that children and pets are out of the work area
  • follow through with a walk- through
  • prior to completion walk through to ask questions and be clear on any final details

After installation day

  • establish good ventilation for 48 to 72 hours

Luxury Vinyl Tile | Preparing for Installation

Depending on the manufacturer these guidelines may vary:

The floor covering, adhesive, and room temperature must be kept with in a temperature range of 65°F to 100°F for at least 48 hours before, and 48 hours after installation. In certain cases where  epoxy adhesive is used, the temperature should not exceed 85°F.

The flooring material should be allowed to acclimate to the temperature of the  area it will be installed for at least 48 hours in advance.

Start with a clean jobsite, a prepared subfloor and remove any items that may damage a finished installation. Substrates must be dry, clean, smooth, and free from paint, varnish, wax, oils, solvents, adhesive from former flooring and other foreign matter.

A properly prepared subfloor is important because the wrong type can telegraph through the new floor. This will not only be unattractive, but it will cause uneven wearing. Underlayment panels are intended to provide a smooth working surface, but are not designed to correct or properly cover structural deficiencies.

Some types of nails, such as common steel nails, cement coated or someresin or rosin coated nails, may cause a discolor-ation of the vinyl floor covering. Use only non-staining fasteners with underlayment panels.

Before getting started, check each box to make sure it is the right style, color and pattern number. Then, be sure to check and make sure the dye lot numbers are the same on each box. It is best to know if a box does not match in the beginning in order to give you time to get a replacement. If there are many boxes that are not the same, you may need to return the entire shipment.

Once you have checked all of the cartons, mix tiles or planks from each carton to minimize shade variation.

Read the manufacturers installation instructions to see if your subfloor is suitable to install the new product over. Often, resilient products should never be installed over residual asphalt type or cut back adhesive. It can bleed through onto the new flooring. All of the adhesive needs to be removed or properly covered before proceeding with the installation.

The manufacturer’s recommended adhesive should always be used in order to maintain the manufacturers warranty.

When installing, be careful and precise measurements must be taken during tile layout. Lay all tiles in the same direction, all directional arrows pointing in the same direction. With plank layout it is also important to balance the layout of the plank format. Proper planning and layout will revent narrow plank widths at wall junctures. Accurately easure the room todetermine the center line, adjust this stablished line to accommodate a balanced lay out and then transpose this line to a comfortable width away from the starting wall (approximately 2’ to 3’ wide). Apply the adhesive in this area and begin installing planks.

When determining the proper layout for mixing tile and planks for custom installations it is important to consider overall pattern and concept before getting started. The pattern should be carefully calculated and laid out for a successful installation.

When the installation is complete, most floors must be rolled with a minimum 100 pound three-section floor roller immediately after installation. Roll the flooring in both directions to firmly seat the tile into the adhesive.


After Installation

Depending on the manufacturer these guidelines may vary:

After installation, furniture and foot traffic should not be on the floor for at least 24 hours. This allows the adhesive to dry completely.

After installation, the floors should also not be washed for 48 hours.

The adhesive residue on the floors after installation can be removed with mineral spirits.

Floor covering subjected to excessive heat and light exposure is subject to thermal degradation. Use appropriate precautions to minimize potential affects on the floor covering.

Oil or petroleum based products can result in surface staining. Do not track asphalt driveway sealer or automobile oil drips onto the vinyl floor covering.

During the life of the floor, the temperature should never drop below 55°F

Natural Stone | Installation

Use a professional

  • this type of floor is heavy, difficult work
  • it’s labor intensive and extremely exacting
  • not for the do-it-yourselfer
  • installing stone flooring is a skill that is developed through years of experience 

Process

  • prepare the substrate
  • cement subfloors can apply the mortar directly to it to lay the tile
  • wood subfloors require a CBU (cement backer unit)
  • movement in the substrate material can sometimes occur
  • for example, water penetrating the grout and/or freezing and thawing temperatures can sometimes cause tile to rise, crack or chip
  • area gets measured
  • snap chalk lines for an accurate layout
  • determine which pieces of tile will need to be cut to fit the area
  • tiles that need to be cut are measured and marked with a pencil
  • then use a wet saw with a diamond blade to cut through
  • begin setting the tile
  • thinset mortar, which is a cement-based adhesive, is applied to the surface with a trowel
  • tile then placed into the thinset and pressed firmly into place
  • imperfections in your subfloor will require differing amounts of mortar to be applied
  • this installation, known as a medium bed installation, is more time consuming and costly




Grout, wedge or butter

  • depending on the type of tile, may be installed with narrow grout joints
  • larger area - wedges or spacers may be used to maintain consistent spacing
  • installers may also back butter the back of the tile with thinset mortar to strengthen the bond

Grout

  • after tiles are set and the thinset mortar has fully cured, joints are filled with grout
  • sanded and un-sanded grouts are used
  • type of grout used is determined by the tile, grout joint and width
  • mixture is spread over the tiled area to fill in all the joints
  • sponge is used to remove excess grout from the surface of the tile

Before installation day

  • relocate furniture
  • empty china cabinets and closets
  • consider removal and disposal of old floorcovering
  • remove it yourself and leave 1 day before install
  • moldings and baseboards need to be removed for stone installation
  • installers not responsible for damage or breakage due to dry or brittle wood
  • painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching (this is your responsibility)
  • existing sub floor may need to be prepared to receive the stone

Door plan

  • possibility that doors may not clear the new floor and swing free
  • installers may remove doors and rehang for an additional cost.
  • for clearance issues, arrange for a qualified carpenter to shave or cut down

Clean-up

  • waste will be produced
  • waste collected and disposed of by installers at an additional cost

Installation day

  • be home and available
  • be prepared for questions
  • presence insures the right wood is installed in the right areas
  • exact time of arrival cannot be guaranteed, only a time frame

Safety

  • installers use tools and techniques that can be hazardous
  • make sure that children and pets are out of the work area
  • follow through with a walk-through
  • prior to completion walk through to ask questions and be clear on any final details

After installation day

  • establish good ventilation for 48 to 72 hours
  • be prepared

Window Coverings - Measuring and Installation

Measuring Window Measuring

  • Different window covering products require different measurements for an accurate installation.
  • Windows and the window covering products must be measured precisely for a successful installation.  This often seems easier than it actually is.  Each window covering product has its own installation method and if they are installed incorrectly they will not operate properly.  If you leave the measuring and installation up to a team of professionals you can be assured of perfect fitting window coverings that function correctly.  It’s almost like having installation insurance!
  • Small measuring errors can result in the window covering not operating properly, unwanted light shining through on the sides, top or bottom, or the coverings not fitting the window casing at all – delaying the entire process and costing more in time and money.
  • Since no two window openings will be exactly the same size, each and every window must be measured.
  • Only specialty or odd shaped windows require making a template in the measuring process.
  • Window sheers can be installed with an inside or outside mount depending on the window molding and sill construction. The depth of the window casing determines whether or not a window covering can be installed with an inside mount.  Mounting bracket sizes vary so this must be checked accurately.
  • Window Measuring
  • An outside mounted window covering should be considered if you would like the window covering to completely clear the window when open, allowing for more light or better view.  This is often desirable on patio doors.
  • For an inside mount the installer will first check to make sure the inside top of the window casing is level.  If necessary, the installer will level the headrail using shims.
  • An inside mounted window covering houses the window covering inside the window casing.  An outside mounted window covering fits around or outside the window casing.
  • With an inside/outside mount the mounting bracket and headrail are installed inside the window casing, but they are not fully recessed. Thus, a portion of the headrail will not be completely flush with the face of the window.